On the outskirts of the Serbian town of Surdulica a black cross looms above a grave almost completely covered in a tangle of weeds — the final resting place of civilians killed 20 years ago by NATO bombs. The quiet, mountain-ringed town of some 18,000 people suffered the most civilian casualties — nearly 30 — during NATO’s three-month air assault on Serbia, which kicked off 20 years ago this Sunday and ultimately ended Belgrade’s war with Kosovo.